POLISH ACADEMY of SCIENCES
TECHNICAL SCIENCES
Civil Engineering and Electronics
| BULLETIN
of the
POLISH ACADEMY of SCIENCES TECHNICAL SCIENCES |
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| Volume
54, Issue 4, December 2006
Civil Engineering and Electronics |
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| Issue Index | Authors Index | Scope Index | Web Info | |
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| Aims&Scope, Subscription | Editors | Authors' guide | to read PDF files | mirror: http://fluid.ippt.gov.pl/~bulletin/ |
| pp 391 - 403 |
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Key phenomena in surf and swash zone: process-based modelling and data-driven analysis |
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| J. KAPINSKI, R. OSTROWSKI, Z. PRUSZAK, and G. ROZYNSKI |
| Selected results of investigations concerning a shallow water part of the coastal zone, covering the surf zone and the swash zone, are presented. The above research has been carried out by means of field measurements, as well as data-driven and theoretical modelling. The investigations have led to development of a mathematical model of wave transformation and run-up on the shore in the Lagrangian system, as well as identification of infragravity waves (edge waves) in the multi-bar morphological beach system and their linkage with rhythmic shoreline forms (cusps). Some empirical relationships have been obtained for the description of number of bars in a bar system and dissipation of wave energy over such morphological structure. The experimental findings are based on field studies carried out at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo. |
| Key words: |
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nearshore zone, waves, sediment motion, coastal morphology and evolution |
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| Issue Index | Authors Index | Scope Index | Web Info |
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| Aims&Scope, Subscription | Editors | Authors' guide | to read PDF files |
| Copyright
® Bulletin of the Polish Academy of Sciences: Technical Sciences
9 January 2007, site prepared by KZ |
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